“I say there, Boo Boo, I am in the mood for a pic-a-nic … table!” -paraphrasing Yogi Bear
Everyone does know who Yogi bear is, right? If he and his little pal were to take a trip from Jellystone and visit our yard, they would find a nice space for dining with their stolen pic-a-nic baskets. Here is the saga of sanding and refinishing (and selecting a finish) our picnic table.
When we bought our house, the former owners asked us if we would like to keep their picnic table. It was purchased circa 1952 from gypsies for two cans of peaches, two cans of tomatoes and five dollars. Considering its rich history, its perfect fit to our porch, and the fact that it is in good condition and will probably seat 12 people, keeping it was a no brainer. It might have even been made of a giant redwood that wasn’t protected by government yet, so all the more reason to keep it in service. We found ourselves eating there a lot while we were doing some renovation before moving into the house and we like have dinner out there when it is still light.
Yes, that is our kitchen table sitting behind the picnic table. It was hanging out on the porch during the kitchen renovation. And, if I ever finish tiling our bathroom, I have plans for it too!
There are two benches, but you get the idea in the photo. The surface was worse for wear and pretty dirty – but since the surface was so rough, we couldn’t get it clean either. After going in this circle a couple times and forcing guests to eat at it, I decided it was high time to refinish it. Besides, nobody needs a splinter in their tush either.
Once again, sanding was the first step of the refinishing process*. After my sanding experience with the bathroom countertop, my goal was to only sand this project once. I fired up my little plug-in hand sander and went to town. The light area on the left in the photo below is sanded and the other area is unsanded.
First lesson: I have this 1/4″ sheet Ryobi hand sander. It comes with two surfaces: a foam meant to soften the blow of sand paper that is clipped on, and a hard plastic piece that is for sticking adhesive sand paper to – at least I think that is the point of the hard plastic. I can tell you that you should NOT stick adhesive sand paper to the foam pad, because it will remove the foam, especially at the corners. And then your hand sander will cut nice circular groves in the wood, even if you cover the exposed hard corners with painting tape. Fortunately, you can replace this assembly (or almost anything else you can figure out how to break) for about $1.00 by buying the spare parts here. The fix took me all of 5 minutes and led to much higher quality surfaces.
See how everything is kind of orangey? That’s this dust AFTER I shopvac’ed the whole thing.
Anyway, I digress. When I started sanding this picnic table, I really had no idea what type of wood it was even made from. After removing the first couple layers, I concluded that it was redwood. It seems that not all approve of using power tools on redwood, but I had a lot of damage to erase and a lot of area to cover so I just sanded away. I actually didn’t have any of the issues I read about online – once again, there is no right answer for home improvement.
Lesson #2: Soft wood is much softer than hardwood. 🙂 I sanded the oak bathroom countertop in the garage for one of the repeats and didn’t generate noticeable dust. My wrath on this picnic table, however, left piles of dust all over the drive. I actually had to shop vac the driveway after the top AND the bottom of each bench and the table. My clothes were also pretty gross. I definitely took off a good 1/16-1/8″ of wood and damage in practically no time at all, which could be why folks don’t use power tools on soft woods.
I always wear a respirator and safety glasses when sanding since dust masks don’t fit my face well and I don’t like to breathe wood dust (nor 50-year-old gypsy paint dust). It is surprisingly not good for you, especially in the large doses that this project generated. This is kind of funny in a way since we visited Redwood National Park the weekend before undertaking this project, which is full of decomposing redwood dust!
After sanding, quite a bit of this dust clung to the table. I did not have tack cloth, plus there was a complete coating of dust so I think it would’ve been futile. Instead, I hauled the stuff into the yard and hosed it down with a jet attachment. Again, I’m quite sure that I violated the many Rules of Handling Soft Woods, but it was very fast and efficient. I have noticed that logging companies hose down the piles of logs, presumably to prevent fires, so one dose of water can’t be that bad. I then toweled down the pieces and let them dry overnight. The furniture seemed no worse for wear afterward. Here is a before (right) and after (left):
Lesson #3: Redwood discolors after sanding. The difference in the photo above is a dead giveaway, but that is 50 years. What surprised me is that the sanded surface actually discolored slightly after only the week between sanding and refinishing. It wasn’t too noticeable so I just plowed forward, but I did make an effort to sand and refinish the other bench and the table on the same weekend.
Lesson #4: There are many types of finishes that one can apply to wood. I’m not an expert by any means, but here are the options I considered (read more here):
- Polyurethene – oil-based coating, hard finish that goes over the wood. Protects from scratches, hardens by cross-linking polymers (which means an actual chemical reaction leading to hardening), nasty to deal with
- Poly-acrylic – water-based coating, hard finish, dries quickly, required sanding between coats, protects from scratches, hardens by cross-linking polymers
- “Varnish” – this word is a general name for clear coatings, but also means a specific finish based on resin dissolved in solvent. It dries and hardens as the resin evaporates.
- Shellac – similar to varnish, but the resin is specifically derived from a insect’s secretion
- Drying wax – hard finish, ingredients seem to vary – maybe like a drying oil?
- Drying oil – naturally derived oil, dries as reacts to oxygen.
- “Exterior wood finish” – typically oil-based (above), soaks in (won’t peel off), semi-transparent stain colors or no colors, weathers a little and protects the wood. I am not totally sure what falls into this category or how they all work, but think naturally-colored porches. I have found one water-based version.
My goal for finishing the table was to give it a durable (remember Tilley, who has no idea what is and is not hers? Everything in our home must be “durable”) and water-resistant finish. The table is under a covered porch so it will not see rain, but it does see pollen and want to be able to wipe that off with a wet cloth. The durability was also important since I don’t want to redo this project anytime soon. Along the same lines, I did not want to apply more than 2 coats of my chosen finish; while I’m sure tung oil looks nice, I was not up for 12 coats with a month of dry time.
I also wanted to try out a finish that is environmentally friendly. Water-based products have more environmentally friendly options (and you don’t have to deal with flammable, hard-to-clean oil-based products). I have come across two options of water-based sealers through searching around the web. The first, Safecoat Acrylaq, I found out about here. I couldn’t tell how well this would weather. When I emailed the company, I expected that I would be staining this wood (didn’t know it was redwood yet). They were very helpful but they actually recommended another of their products, WaterShield, for outdoor furniture. I couldn’t find this product locally so I can’t comment on it.
Instead, I used the other option that I found, Polywhey ExteriorWood Finish by Vermont Naturals in Caspian Clear. I also found it to be a good sign that Vermont Naturals had a picture of folks finishing a picnic table on their website! This product I COULD find locally in a paint store, except I think their stock was out of date so my can looks like this:
On the website, it is labeled “Exterior Wood Stain”, which is perhaps a bit confusing since stain is not usually clear. I emailed Vermont Naturals to ask about the discrepancy and they assure me that it is the same product. It is actually made from whey, a cheese-making by-product that is usually waste. So, we get double environmental points for repurposing waste AND not harming the environment with toxic chemicals in a paint finish. For this surface area, I used two quart cans completely. I applied it with an angled Purdy paintbrush in the middle of the afternoon. I mention the time of day because it was HOT in direct sunlight. The finish dried quickly on the furniture but it also left my brush a little tacky, even after cleaning, since it was drying at the top while I was finishing. I would recommend using this finish out of direct sunlight for the comfort of your paint brush.
The finish went on purple and even milky in some places, which was a little scary at the time. After drying, it had a nice clear color. The wood looked a little darker than right after sanding, but this is standard for clear finishes.
The purplish tint only lasted about 10 minutes before drying away.
I liked this product. It was quite easy to work with, did not smell at all (no respirator needed for terrible fumes!), dried quickly and left a nice coating. More like an exterior porch finish than a polyurenthene, the polywhey soaked into the wood (that’s the “penetrating” part) and left a subtly shiny finish. This particular finish is not supposed to be as “hard” as a polyurethene finish, but it is perfect for an unassuming, outdoor picnic table with a history. As to appearance, the coating isn’t as reflective as the Minwax polyacrylic that I used on the bathroom countertop. I did not sand between coats like I would’ve with the hard finish and had no issues. In fact, this finish did not bubble at all. The can says to wait 2-3 days for the second coat to dry before using, but we put a water glass down after 5 days and it left a ring 😦 . I would recommend waiting a week to avoid any issues – water glasses do not leave marks anymore. Spilled water even beads up, as advertised:
Here’s the finished product:
Much nicer than the before. (The kitchen table moved back in and now there’s backerboard there…) Here’s a direct before and after:
*Want to read about my first experience refinishing and appreciate what is possibly the ugliest piece of re-finished furniture in the blogsphere? Try here, here , here and finally here. I’ve published every mistake I’ve made so you can get off scot-free.